More of the Colca Canyon

Woke up this morning to beautiful sunny skies and spectacular views a the El Refugio.

There truly aren't enough superlatives to describe this vacation!

A lovely breakfast this morning the off to see the sites a short drive to Yunque to visit the local church and begin a walk through the village and on to see the Pre Inca and Inca Terraces. The walk was difficult at times through uneven rocky paths with various animal deposits to dodge along the way. The challenge was to stop looking at the Andes, terraces, flora and fauna, volcanoes and sunny skies to make sure you didn't step in something unexpected!

The colours of the terraces were fabulous with multiple shades of green (grasses, cacti,trees), reds, purples and gold (quinoa plants), white (wheat) and yellows (flowers).

There were large cacti called 'zig zag' where a particular bird nests. 

We saw the 'giant hummingbird' which is 17 cm in size, we saw 1 in spectacular colour of blue.

Some doves (black and white winged), Andean eagle, and butterflies.

The Eagles had their nests also in the crevices of the rock face, very large!

We saw the local people out with their mules, and sheep on their way to work.

Local woman working in the terraces, harvesting and weeding.

We saw cows grazing and being milked.

During our 2 hour hike we crossed a stone bridge, and suspension bridge ( this wasn't a trek for those afraid of heights or struggling with altitude!)

The name 'Colca' means storage container, the Inca would store their goods in a hole in the rock face which would act as a refrigerator, we were able to see these from the suspension bride.

Everywhere we looked there was an amazing view and then some. I'm truly in awe of the Andes!

In this particular area there are 16 small villages each with their own church!

Looking back on the path we travelled on this trek, I was impressed by the distance and terrain we crossed!

Then back to the hotel for a late lunch, just as the clouds started rolling in. It seems that the weather is quite beautiful til about 3, then the clouds and wind come with a bit of rain (thunder showers today).

A few of us remained at the hotel rather then going on the afternoon tour to sit by the fire, knit and spin yarn. How wonderful is that?

The Colca Canyon

We have made the bus journey to El Refugio in the Colca Canyon. The views on our way were breathtaking. The sky was clear allowing us great views of the volcanoes. The topography and plant life change as you climb in altitude, all unique and beautiful. We were very fortunate on our way, seeing vicuña, alpaca, llamas, native birds (some on the extinction list) and other native wildlife, with 5 species on the extinction list. We stopped along the way for great photo 'ops'. Our highest altitude along the way was 16,100 ft or 4910 metres, and of course there was a market, so also visited the highest shopping plaza!

I can't even explain the shades of greens, browns and greys, snow capped peaks.

The road was pretty windy, but not scary, I wasn't in fear of going over the cliff.

We stopped in a small village called Chivay for lunch, visited the local church and market.

Then the clouds rolled in and the rain began to fall. The temperature also dropped a significant amount, brrr.

El Refugio is an isolated little oasis with that he'd roofs and thermal hot springs where we plan to relax this evening. There are a number of stairs from the parking lot along a bubbly brook before you reach the actual building.

No problems with the altitude with Diamox to take for prevention wth candy and cookies made from the coca leaf - these taste a lot better than the tea.

Tonight there is a roaring fire in the dining area where we will enjoy some soup and do a little knitting.

Colour

My last day of the knitting workshop today, started working on a scarf with some beautiful blue baby alpaca yarn I purchased last night.

The afternoon was great, in the courtyard knitting and taught 2 of our teachers how to knit Janice style and we are all making a scarf. What great fun we all had laughing and sharing!

Still full from lunch so we just enjoyed a glass of wine at a rooftop wine bar and then picked up some pastries to eat later tonight.

Peru is filled with colour not just in the textiles but also the food. Every dish we've ordered has been beautifully presented and always colourful, a feast for the eyes. Initially it was rather shocking to get a bowl of bright green soup, or potatoes in a bright yellow sauce, but now I expect nothing less.

It will be dull to look at our cuisine after this...not that my cooking has ever been that exciting!

Tonight we'll be packing up our weekend bag and heading to the Colca Canyon in the morning for the weekend. A weekend get away on a vacation, this is wonderful. 

We are all preparing for the change of altitude either with medication and/or coca tea (which tastes disgusting if you ask me).

Craftsman or Artist?

As day 3 of the knitting workshop ends, we are all getting to know each other and communication with our teachers is much improved- they all have a great sense of humour!

I finished my little project today! I'm quite happy with how my Andean knitting has improved over this short time period.

I was able to spend more time observing the other teachers and students at work.

Really these people are truly artists, what they can create with their vision and simple tools is amazing.

I was able to observe our carver over the last 3 days work on a gourd. No drawing out pictures, just carving little by little til he finished creating this beautiful gourd depicting our workshops and Peruvian life. A masterpiece so of course it's coming home with me.

Feeling like I'm catching a cold so had a siesta this afternoon, hoping it doesn't get any worse.

This evening off to the yarn shop for some alpaca yarn- guess this year's Christmas gifts?

Then dinner, thought a nice bowl of soup would be good for the cold so Italian Minestrone Peruvian style and Chocolate truffles in a fruit 'soup' Delicious.

Buenas Noches.

Arequipa

KDay 2 spent knitting in the courtyard..ahhh.

The city of Arequipa is 7662 ft above sea level in the foothills of the Andes and is flanked by 3 volcanoes Misti( pictured in my previous blog), Chachani and Pichu Pichu. Most of the buildings in the Unesco Heritage Site centre are built of white/cream stillar which is why it is often called the 'white city'. It is a place where you will find alpaca and vicuña (which is even finer than alpaca).

We enjoyed a meal at Zig Zag a restaurant that features a stairway to the second floor designed by Gustave Eiffel.

It is not unusual for Arequipa to experience up to 15 small tremors daily, I can't say I've been aware of any since we arrived. I did review 'what to do in case of earthquake' handout that we were given on arrival.

I also feel quite tall here!! 

My knitting project is coming along well and the technique is feeling more familiar.

I'm sure to have it done by the end of the workshop.

Anne has been struck by travel sickness, hope she's better soon and I can avoid it!

The Internet in the hotel block has been down for awhile so not sure when you will actually view this.

Knitting Day 1

This has been the most FABULOUS day!

Today I spent the day learning Andean knitting. It's very challenging for me, I'm using multiple colours and a graphic design to create a pattern. My usual knitting involves using one colour or self patterning yarn. This is also a very different way to knit. The knitting needles have been made of bicycle spokes filed at 1 end into a sharp point and the a small hook created at the other and we use 5. The yarn is alpaca hand spun and dyed by our teacher Ruffina. The yarn is very fine and soft, you must be careful not to tug too hard or create too tight of tension - as I found out (I've been known to bend a needle from holding all just a little too tight! I think I would describe the technique some mix of  European and North American knitting, part crochet, you use your thumbs and hang the yarn from your neck to create the correct tension. Ruffina is lovely in her traditional dress and reminds us often patience, slowly. She speaks Spanish only but through demonstration, hand signals and a shared love of knitting she is a great teacher. It just goes to show if you share a love of something the spoken word isn't always necessary!

There were many other artisans sharing they're talents and finished projects with us. Weavers, embroiders ( hand an machine) , braiders, and carvers and spinners. So throughout the day we could see others working at their chosen craft.

So, how could life be better then spending a sunny day in the courtyard of a 'castle' knitting with new friends!

A truly marvelous time!

Arequipa

We spent the morning doing a walking tour of Arequipa from 8-12. It was a hot and sunny day.we visited convents, monasteries, churches and museums. It is quite interesting to see how the indigenous people continued to weave their icons in the Catholic beliefs. One convent had over 500 nuns and now has 18. There is much use of gold leaf I the chuche and silver in the garments- gold to represent the Suns sweat, silver the moons tears.

The Museo Santuarios Andinos which displays the artifacts of the 1995 expedition by Dr Reinhard, where they discovered a perfect mummy 'Juanita' who was sacrificed to the gods, she was 16 yrs old.

The traffic is still crazy here, but not as bad as Lima. No problems with the altitude at this stop.

The meals are very large! I tried quinoa gnocchi, very good! Really we've been eatin breakfast and lunc because at the end of the day we're not hungry.

Finally a good view of one of the 3 volcanos in Arequipa.

The afternoon meant seeing the process of dying the yarn at Calicampo. 

They hand dye the yarn with natural and organic dye, the yarn is steamed, washed then dried in the sun. It reminded me of some of the dying process of the batiks in Bali!

Then to an Alpaca factory where their process are mechanized, and directed more to the clothing industry. Very intersecting with good quality but there's something to be said for small and personal.

Out for a chocolate run, Arequipa is known for fabulous chocolate.

Tomorrow we start our workshops, 4 days of knitting ahead!