Craftsman or Artist?

As day 3 of the knitting workshop ends, we are all getting to know each other and communication with our teachers is much improved- they all have a great sense of humour!

I finished my little project today! I'm quite happy with how my Andean knitting has improved over this short time period.

I was able to spend more time observing the other teachers and students at work.

Really these people are truly artists, what they can create with their vision and simple tools is amazing.

I was able to observe our carver over the last 3 days work on a gourd. No drawing out pictures, just carving little by little til he finished creating this beautiful gourd depicting our workshops and Peruvian life. A masterpiece so of course it's coming home with me.

Feeling like I'm catching a cold so had a siesta this afternoon, hoping it doesn't get any worse.

This evening off to the yarn shop for some alpaca yarn- guess this year's Christmas gifts?

Then dinner, thought a nice bowl of soup would be good for the cold so Italian Minestrone Peruvian style and Chocolate truffles in a fruit 'soup' Delicious.

Buenas Noches.

Arequipa

KDay 2 spent knitting in the courtyard..ahhh.

The city of Arequipa is 7662 ft above sea level in the foothills of the Andes and is flanked by 3 volcanoes Misti( pictured in my previous blog), Chachani and Pichu Pichu. Most of the buildings in the Unesco Heritage Site centre are built of white/cream stillar which is why it is often called the 'white city'. It is a place where you will find alpaca and vicuña (which is even finer than alpaca).

We enjoyed a meal at Zig Zag a restaurant that features a stairway to the second floor designed by Gustave Eiffel.

It is not unusual for Arequipa to experience up to 15 small tremors daily, I can't say I've been aware of any since we arrived. I did review 'what to do in case of earthquake' handout that we were given on arrival.

I also feel quite tall here!! 

My knitting project is coming along well and the technique is feeling more familiar.

I'm sure to have it done by the end of the workshop.

Anne has been struck by travel sickness, hope she's better soon and I can avoid it!

The Internet in the hotel block has been down for awhile so not sure when you will actually view this.

Knitting Day 1

This has been the most FABULOUS day!

Today I spent the day learning Andean knitting. It's very challenging for me, I'm using multiple colours and a graphic design to create a pattern. My usual knitting involves using one colour or self patterning yarn. This is also a very different way to knit. The knitting needles have been made of bicycle spokes filed at 1 end into a sharp point and the a small hook created at the other and we use 5. The yarn is alpaca hand spun and dyed by our teacher Ruffina. The yarn is very fine and soft, you must be careful not to tug too hard or create too tight of tension - as I found out (I've been known to bend a needle from holding all just a little too tight! I think I would describe the technique some mix of  European and North American knitting, part crochet, you use your thumbs and hang the yarn from your neck to create the correct tension. Ruffina is lovely in her traditional dress and reminds us often patience, slowly. She speaks Spanish only but through demonstration, hand signals and a shared love of knitting she is a great teacher. It just goes to show if you share a love of something the spoken word isn't always necessary!

There were many other artisans sharing they're talents and finished projects with us. Weavers, embroiders ( hand an machine) , braiders, and carvers and spinners. So throughout the day we could see others working at their chosen craft.

So, how could life be better then spending a sunny day in the courtyard of a 'castle' knitting with new friends!

A truly marvelous time!

Arequipa

We spent the morning doing a walking tour of Arequipa from 8-12. It was a hot and sunny day.we visited convents, monasteries, churches and museums. It is quite interesting to see how the indigenous people continued to weave their icons in the Catholic beliefs. One convent had over 500 nuns and now has 18. There is much use of gold leaf I the chuche and silver in the garments- gold to represent the Suns sweat, silver the moons tears.

The Museo Santuarios Andinos which displays the artifacts of the 1995 expedition by Dr Reinhard, where they discovered a perfect mummy 'Juanita' who was sacrificed to the gods, she was 16 yrs old.

The traffic is still crazy here, but not as bad as Lima. No problems with the altitude at this stop.

The meals are very large! I tried quinoa gnocchi, very good! Really we've been eatin breakfast and lunc because at the end of the day we're not hungry.

Finally a good view of one of the 3 volcanos in Arequipa.

The afternoon meant seeing the process of dying the yarn at Calicampo. 

They hand dye the yarn with natural and organic dye, the yarn is steamed, washed then dried in the sun. It reminded me of some of the dying process of the batiks in Bali!

Then to an Alpaca factory where their process are mechanized, and directed more to the clothing industry. Very intersecting with good quality but there's something to be said for small and personal.

Out for a chocolate run, Arequipa is known for fabulous chocolate.

Tomorrow we start our workshops, 4 days of knitting ahead!

Arrived in Arequipa

We have safely arrived in Arequipa. The flight was about an hour and the view of the topography was spectacular!

Went for a nice lunch in the plaza then a quick walk around the main area to get our bearings.

Hoping to sleep well tonight for a full day tomorrow.

We are staying at the Casa de Melgar. This is a 16th century 'home' that was built for the Archbishop of Arequipa. I really should have packed my tiara, as I feel I'm in a castle.

Adios Lima

Our last day in Lima, mix of sun and cloud with a high of 24. The highlight of today's tour was definitely the Amano Museum, a private textile museum that has been closed for renovations but gave us a special pre tour! Here we saw textiles dating to 2500 BC to the 16th century. The condition of these textiles is remarkable. Many were from thr Paracas region of Peru. The weaving of the first piece was exquisite with the finest fibre you can imagine, in fact when Doris ( owner and curator) was restoring the piece it was not possible to find such a fine fibre, and ingeniously found something to substitute.

People of the Highlands spin standing while coastal people spin sitting, this creates a different twist in the fibres allowing identification.

The embroidery work is spectacular, especially when you think they used dried cactus needles for their work. 

The Imara culture believed that spinning from the left, meaning the work came from the heart and their textile was never cut.

Certainly a recurring theme these past days was "balance", it was important to have balance in their work which translates to their life.

Lima is a very busy city of 10 million, the traffic is a nightmare, buses everywhere, horns blaring.

I stayed in the Miraflores region, which is very clean and safe to walk. It has a number of beautiful parks, tennis courts, soccer fields, jogging/walking paths, and a park that even has exercise equipment in it such as elliptical machines. These parks are very well used by the residents.

Like all cities there are many different areas, from the very poor to the wealthy.

The people that we have met are pleasant and welcoming.

The foods are rich in flavours, lots of potatoes and bread- add red wine and I'm in heaven.

Beware of the red pepper, it looks like our sweet red pepper but it is very very hot! Surprise to the palette. In Lima there are many dishes using fish and/or seafood, but I was always able to easily find other things to enjoy.

We took a little side trip to the market to learn about the fruits and vegetables native to peru, some very interesting things and a feast for the eyes.

We tried a Chirimoya yesterday, it looks like a dinosaur egg, when opened its a custard sort of texture a tastes somewhere between a pear and an apple- it was quite good.

Well off to bed, we fly to Arequipa at 650AM, there is no sleeping in!

Pisco Sour

The Pisco Sours were delish, walked back to the hotel an finally able to get a connection to share some pictures.